Friday, July 5, 2013

A visit to Niladri's house and school

After we got off the metro in Niladri's neighborhood, we stopped with him to get some food to feed the poster making crew.  I was fascinated by this man who was frying a lentil based paste into fancy circles to create a sweet treat.  My stomach is still adjusting to the amount of oil used in food here, so I didn't try one, but it was amazing.

A typical snack shop.  This is where Niladri bought us some fabulous potato based lunch.

A cat on a sofa in a downstairs room of Niladri's house.  I think that there are some shared areas of the house and then people/families have their own rooms.  It was a large house (maybe 3 or 4 rooms on each floor).

Another cat.... and my toes.

The poster making crew in Niladri's room.  We were getting things ready for the Pride parade that will take place in Kolkata on Sunday.

The other side of the room and their stunning artwork.


Caitlin and I were helping make the ribbon pins.


The finished products of our labor.


Through the gratework in the hallway of Niladri's house.  These grates cover many of the open air windows and balconies on homes around the city.  I love the look.  Also, this allows some ventilation for clothes to dry, but I am quickly learning that nothing dries easily in this humidity.

A view of the rooftop deck on the house beside Niladri's house.  The plants were gorgeous. 
The house across the street.


We have mostly been eating Indian food from restaurants around the hotel, but when we went to the mall yesterday to watch a movie, we were excited to eat at Subway.  We all decided that the veggie shammi and aloo subs need to make their way to America.  Best Subway experience. 

This is the left side of my primary classroom - VI A.  This is my mentor teacher's class for both Language and Literature and her homeroom.  They are very dear.  They have all been making me drawings, bringing me gifts and singing me songs.  Too cute!

The right side of the room.

One half of the library.  It is an L shape and the other side is about the same width.  They have about 3,000 books in the library.  The woman at the computer is in charge of the publications for the school (the magazine and newspaper).  This is the only computer that I have seen so far, but I haven't been to the building with the uppermost grades yet, and I imagine that there might be one or two more there.

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

My first holiday (apparently that is what we are to call days off)


I am sorry about my lack of photos.  I keep forgetting to use my camera.  I will try to do better the next few days.  Maybe tonight I can snap a picture of the movie theater where we are going to see Raanjhanaa.

7/4 – 7:15 am – waiting for my Insanity partners outside the crowded (boo) hotel gym

Caitlin, Sarah S., and I decided yesterday morning to wake up early and do Insanity.  It was a good choice.  It ensured that I didn’t start the day with tears, and those endorphins lasted all day.  Today neither Caitlin or I have school, so we are working out later (except that I have been awake since about 4 because I took a nap yesterday).  Oops.  I am sucking at getting over jet lag.  Yesterday morning we had the gym to ourselves and it was wonderful, but there are already a handful of people working out now and I am early.  I guess today our inability to do push ups and our massive amounts of sweat will not go unnoticed. 

Our plan for later today is to go to the house of Niladri, an English professor at a local college (a friend of Caitlin’s from last year), and make signs for Sunday’s pride parade.  Apparently, Kolkata was the first city in India to have a pride parade, and it continues to grow every year.  We are all going to go march in the parade with Niladri on Sunday.  It should be an experience.  Niladri said it is amazing to be on the streets of Kolkata without worrying about traffic.  After days of being terrified of the roads, I can’t even imagine.  I am also excited to venture to a new neighborhood where his house is located, and we are taking the metro (another first for me). 

It feels strange to not be headed to school even though everyone else is.  My school has a weird schedule, and rather than having off Saturday and Sunday, they take holiday on Thursday and Sunday.  Nobody can really seem to explain why.   One teacher told me that it is nice to have off on a day that everything is open, so presumably, our schedule is due to banking convenience?   Odd.  Unfortunately, this weird schedule means that I will miss out on some activities that my group is doing.  This Saturday they are going on a field trip with Drew’s school to villages a few hours outside the city to do some teaching and house construction.  I can’t wait to hear all about their experiences. 

Yesterday at work, I mostly sat in the staff room all day.  The students were still taking exams, so I couldn’t teach any classes.  I guess that will change next week.  It was interesting to spend a day meeting and talking to the teachers.  They were full of questions about American schools, my life, etc.  Some of the Bengali teachers taught me a few words of Bengali.  I learned that Namaskar is the Bengali word for Namaste, and I learned to say “I am fine” (Ami bhalo acchi).  I also learned the word love bhalobasa.  They were endlessly entertained with my pronunciations of their names and all the Bengali and Hindi words they had me repeat.  Hopefully I get better at both remembering and pronouncing their names.  Right now it is all a blur.

I will also spend some time working on lesson plans today.  The first things that I am teaching are The Pied Piper of Hamelin and verb tenses.  There is a lot of pressure to make these lessons amazing since I have been introduced to the students as the “best teacher in America.”  For some reason, the principal has really taken to me, and he told me yesterday that if I want to stay, he will buy me a house and a car.  I didn’t mention that I would definitely meet with a fiery death if I tried to drive on these roads.  For now, I am letting him treat me like the daughter he has always wanted since it comes with a personal driver (albeit a scary one) and lots of praise.

Orientation in DC and layover in Dubai

Monument tour at night.
rotate
This was my first visit to the MLK memorial even though it has been finished for awhile.  Also, I could not figure out how to rotate the photos.  Sorry.

Me in front of the Burj Khalifa.
Caitlin, our resident director, in front of the Burj Khalifa

So tall.  I was incapable of including its entirety.

Walking toward the Burj Khalifa once we escaped the mall. We had a LONG layover so we got to hop on the metro and explore for a few hours.

Name of statue pictured below.

We saw this through the window of the skywalk between the metro and the mall and a few of us decided we would rather be outside than in a mall.  It was hot, but not as sticky as Kolkata, so we didn't mind it.

Fountains outside the Burj Khalifa.



Tuesday, July 2, 2013

First Day Jitters and Tears

After nodding off all day yesterday during presentations, I was SOOOOO eager to sleep last night.  I was tucked in by 9:45 and super happy to be in bed.  Then... at 2:45 I woke up.  I went to the bathroom and crawled back in bed, but I COULD NOT sleep.  I tried everything.  I counted sheep.  I stroked my own hair.   I tossed and turned.  I created a perfect cave of blankets and pillows.  I had placed my wake-up call for 6:45, and the last time I remember looking at the clock was 5:34.  So I probably got about an hour of sleep.  I was so angry with myself.  When I got to breakfast this morning most of the other teachers were already there, but there was no room at their tables so I took one in the corner.  A few minutes later, one of the John's joined me.  He innocently commented that I looked tired and I just sort of burst into tears.  Poor guy.  By now, most of you know that I am just a crier and the best thing to do is ignore it or be mean to me in hopes that I stop.  New people aren't great at being mean when I cry; I guess because it seems cruel.  Luckily, John was very kind and then cracked a few jokes that helped me semi-compose myself.  When I left breakfast, I stopped in the lobby bathroom to wash my face and blow my nose.  Then I went out to the lobby to meet Rupa who had come with the driver to pick me up for my first day.

Day One was NOT what I expected.  I thought that there would be classes to attend and lots to do, but because the students were taking unit exams, there was relatively little to do.  Everyone was so sweet, but mostly I was in the way.  They set me up in the library for awhile and told me to read whatever I wanted.  I couldn't read though because also in the library, they were sorting all of the exam books that had been turned in and there were about 6 people shouting and tripping over me at all times.  I will have to take pictures of the library some day so that you can see how narrow it is and how I was definitely in the way.  I did get to go to 2 classes (one grade 5 and the other grade 6).  The students were adorable and polite and brimming with questions about America.  The principal also introduced me to all of the students in grades 6-9 at the afternoon assembly.  They were very cute when all 1,000 of them chorused, "Good morning, Jodi ma'am."  I am apparently a big deal in India.  Once exams are over on Friday, I am sure that life at school will be a bit more normal.

Monday, July 1, 2013

Tomorrow we start work


7/1

Today was exhausting.  We just returned (around 9pm) from a day at the American Center and American Consulate where we had orientations and got to meet our mentor teachers and principals.  There was so much information and it was hard to take it all in due to severe jet lag.  When Niladri was talking to us about the history of Kolkata and showing us pictures, I kept nodding off even though he is hilarious and perfect.  Afterwards when we went to our security briefing at the consulate, I was telling the others how desperately I wanted to hear him despite what my eyes were saying.  We all laughed because we dismiss such excuses from our own students, but maybe their excuses aren’t as good as 36 hours of travel time.  Also, no student has ever said to me, “ I was so desperate to hear, and I am sorry that I couldn’t stay awake.”  They should adopt that line; at least then I wouldn’t feel as angry if they slept. 

My other big first for the day was my first taxi ride.  We have been told over and over to expect cabs to try to rip you off.  The foreign rate is something like double the meter plus 10rupees.  Our program coordinators even gave us a printed sheet of prices depending on what the meter said.  Today we were grabbing a couple of cabs to take us to the American Center – only about a 15 minute walk down the same street as the hotel.  Sarah and I get in a cab (the meter is running – this is the part you must check before getting in).  He drives us to the center, and when we arrive the meter says 16 rupees.  According to my chart, I owe him 40ish rupees, but instead of just paying what the chart says, I say how much?  He says 100r.  I say ok and start looking for money.  Sarah says no, it shouldn’t be that much.  She is obviously better at life than me.  I show the cab driver our chart and we pull out 40r.  He tries to barter with us for 50, but Sarah pushes me out of the cab.  Obviously I have to learn how things work without help because I would have just paid the 100 even though I knew it was too much.  Mostly my group found it hilarious that I had showed him that I have a cheat sheet – especially since I wasn’t even willing to trust it and then I wanted him to trust it. 

By the way 100rupees is about $1.75.  Crazy.

Also, my mentor teacher and morning administrator were wonderfully nice.  I still feel like I don’t know what to expect tomorrow, but it will be fine.  I hope.  I am very nervous about meeting the children.  I must sleep so that I can be more alert in class than I was today.  

Arriving

More of my journal


6/30 – At the Oberoi after the scariest car ride

We literally just arrived at the Oberoi Grand Hotel, and it is magnificent to be “home” after days of travel.  I am just waiting for the staff to bring up my bags so that I can shower off my days of travel. 

My first introduction to my city has been unreal.  As we were landing, it was clear that about 5 airplane hangers had about waist high water.  The planes were immersed up to the top of their tires and some men were wading through the water around them.  The terminals were on higher ground and we were easily able to disembark and make it through immigration.  My experience with the Kolkata airport is one of seemingly endless lines that just lead to more lines.   And my approach to lines is not exactly the same as the approach that many others were taking.  The rule seems to be that if you leave a little space between you and the person in front of you, someone will squeeze into that space and you will wait a little longer.  Note to self – get comfortable sharing personal space if a line is involved. 

continued 7/1 after returning from the American Center where we made appointments to register our visas

Well, I didn’t really get a chance to record many of my thoughts yesterday as we were very busy with meetings and shopping to try to avoid the realization that we hadn’t slept much and need to adapt to a new time zone.  I managed to stay awake until about 11 last night.  I did wake up around 3:30 in the morning and had some trouble falling back asleep, but when my wake up call came in at 7:30, it had to rouse me out of a deep sleep.  I should say that wake up calls here are quite phenomenal.  First the phone beside your bed rings.  You answer and say good morning.  Then about 40 seconds later, your doorbell rings and a man brings in a tray of tea and cookies (or whatever else you want to request the night before when you arrange your wake-up call).  Obviously this is heaven. 

Back to my first impressions of Kolkata and the weirdest car ride ever

Once we made it through immigration, we waited at baggage claim for a solid hour to retrieve our bags.  I was feeling extremely sleepy so I looked around and found that the only bench in the area was free.  I claimed it and had been sitting there a few minutes before a man approached me for directions to customs.  I obviously couldn’t help him except to direct him to a man wearing a lanyard walking past.  I had decided that lanyards meant you worked at the airport.  I was sort of wondering why he asked until I noticed that the table in front of the bench where I had taken up residence was an information desk.  I had unwittingly been passing myself off as the director of information.  I decided it would be a good idea to join the others in my group. 

Once we made it through customs with our bags, we met with a representative of the hotel who had been sent to drive us (or so we thought).  He patiently waited as we exchanged currency and used the bathroom.  Then we walk outside with all of our carts of luggage, and we are greeted by a row of Oberoi employees each holding a sign with our names.  That is right, we each had our own car and driver.  What?!?!  I wish I had thought to take a picture, but I was not really thinking.  So my dear driver loaded my luggage into our sweet black SUV and off we roared.  Yes, roared, not rolled.  Apparently our 10 drivers were on a mission to get us settled into the hotel as quickly as possible.  They zoomed down streets where there were no lines or organization that I could discern.  And they beeped constantly.  Presumably to let others know they were driving.  In order to cope with the sheer terror of being surrounded on all sides with vehicles driving any direction and speed that they chose, I decided to try to decipher the codes of the beeping.  I think that I determined that for my driver two short beeps meant “I am about to hit your left side, move.”  A longer blare meant, “I am going to dart around you to the right regardless of how close that puts me to the barrier, and then I will cut you off.”  It seemed like a complicated language to me, and I am pretty sure there were different dialects because some other drivers seemed to give long blares when they were attempting to squeeze by us on the left. 

All of the roadways were overwhelming.  In addition to all of the cars, hand pulled carts, small little taxi-ish wagons, crowded buses, etc., there were also hundreds of pedestrians.  The sidewalks were full of people selling goods or standing around, so people trying to walk to anywhere also used the road.  On top of that, there were also dozens of stray dogs and cows on the streets.  I actually only got to see 5 cows and only one of them gave us a disgruntled moo as we whizzed around him.  I honestly have no idea how people can stand to drive here.  It is madness.  Even in the streets right around our hotel, there are just throngs of people and cars bully their way through with lots of beeping and dependence on people to value their lives enough to get out of the way.  Caitlin told us that around 11pm the police but barricades around most of the roads so that the cars have to slow down and avoid hitting the people who use the sidewalks as home.  These barricades are apparently like speed bumps.  We returned from the market around 10 and the streets were still bustling at that time. 

 
The view at the airport.  These hangers have worse than usual flooding according to the staff.

A few of us waiting for our luggage.  

A street near our hotel.  This was taken on my first walk which was made in an attempt to stay awake until an appropriate time to fight jet lag.  

Notice that it seems improbable that the car won't hit something.  

My hotel room - the bathroom

My closet and tea making station

My bedroom

My amazingly comfortable (or am I just the most tired I have ever been?) bed

Shopping for salweer kamiz and kurtas at the market.  A man from the hotel went with us to teach us to barter and choose clothing.  Poor guy.  I am sure that he was humiliated to be with such strange women.


Sporting our new looks to go to the American Center and American Consulate for orientation and dinner with our  mentors and principals.